5 essentials that all cyclists in Spain need

Having these 5 essentials will defiantly increase your safety and are quite useful whether your cycling recreational or competitively with some friends. If you don’t have any of these your local bike shop or you could even order these essentials online.

Helmets save lives, there’s no doubt about that. If you’re planning on cycling at speeds of over 15km and you don’t have a helmet when you fall you could suffer serious injuries. Make sure your helmet fits all safety regulations, helmets should be replaced if broken, cracked or when it doesn’t. Your helmet should be able to fit snug on your head, always fasten and check it’s tight before moving off.

Brakes are an essential that should never be over looked. Brakes stop us when we’re traveling to fast and we need to stop suddenly, using your feet as brakes WILL NOT replace broken brakes nor will they stop your bicycle in time. Always make sure that the set of brakes is in working order, never ride a bike with faulty brakes. If you own a bike with faulty brakes repair them, always make sure you bike is properly maintained so you avoid rusty and broken brakes.


A Bell will serve as a warning device for pedestrians, warning them of your presence. Use 30 metres it before reaching them and ring it twice in case they didn’t hear it the first time. When approaching areas such as bus stops, shops and car packs bells will serve handy to clear the way especially.



Fluorescent Clothing is important when using the road and shared paths so motorists, pedestrians and other cyclists can see you.  Fluorescent clothing reflects the light and is much easier to see in the dark than other colours, avoid dark clothing when cycling. If you don’t have any fluorescent clothing these wear some bright coloured clothes. Safety and being seen are very important when it comes to using the roads. Always wear closed footwear on a bicycle for protection, avoid open foot wear like flip flops and Jandels.


Lights and reflectors It is compulsory to have a red rear end light and white front light for cycling in the dark, if you currently do not have any and you cycle in during times of low light and darkness then buying a red light and front white light is a good idea. When it comes to purchasing these spend 15$ or more on both lights. Good quality lights will be able to get you seen by others. These higher quality lighters are reliable and stronger and will defiantly serve their purpose by lighting up the path in front of you during the dark and helping by being seen from the rear.

With these 5 essentials your chances of being seen and avoiding an accident will improve tremendously.



The alternative for short vacations!

· 3 theory modules
· 3 confined water modules
· 2 ocean dives
· Course duration: 2 days

In just 2 days you will learn everything you need to know for fun dives with a PADI Divemaster or Instructor in the ocean to a depth of up to 12 meters. In just 2 more days, on your next holiday for example, you can upgrade to Open Water Diver (see below).

The first day will be spent on classroom theory and confined water (learning scuba diving skills in shallow water). The second day will spent scuba diving in the ocean. At the end of the second day, you will be a qualified scuba diver!


· 5 theory modules
· 5 confined water modules
· 4 ocean dives
· Course duration: 4 days (approx. 2 days for the upgrade from SCUBA DIVER)
The PADI Open Water Diver Course is your basic training for independent diving. You will learn basic diving skills, theory and equipment handling in the company of competent PADI instructors. The modules are easy and fun! Via textbook, videos and lessons with the Instructor you will be come a fully qualified Open Water Diver, in only 4 days. The first two days are spent on classroom theory and confined water (learning diving skills in shallow water), and the next two days are spent diving in the ocean.


You will be qualified to dive together with another diver who holds the same qualification or better, in conditions as good as or better than those you trained in, to a depth limit of 18 meters. As an Open Water Diver you will be licensed to have air tanks filled and rent equipment. You also fulfill the necessary pre-requisite for participation in the Advanced Open Water Course (please see below).

· 5 theory modules
· 5 ocean dives (Navigation Dive, Deep Dive, 3 Adventure Dives of your choice)
· Course duration: 2-3 days

In this advanced course you will learn the skills necessary to independently navigate underwater and dive to depths of up to 30 meters. A further 3 dives of your choice (see list) round out your advanced training:

Wreck Dive: Safe exploration of underwater wrecks.

Drift Dive: Safe procedures for drift diving.

Peak Performance Buoyancy: One of the most profitable courses: perfect your buoyancy to the point that the fish will think you were born underwater!

Underwater Photography: Learn proper procedures for underwater photography, lighting, focus etc.

Fish Identification: Learn to correctly identify the sub-marine life forms.


Search and Recovery: Basic procedures for finding and recovering objects lost underwater.

Boat Dive: Boat Dive procedures and protocol.

Multilevel und Computer Dive: For a better understanding of proper dive planning.

Night Dive: Not as dark as you think! Observe underwater phenomenons not seen by day.

Underwater Naturalist: Discover, Observe and Identify.


When you finish this course you will be in a position to competently handle diving related emergency situations, and have a deeper understanding of first aid for diver-specific injuries. For more detailed information, please contact us.


Prerequisite for the Rescue Diver Course. This one day internationally recognized Emergency First Response for the Diver and the non-Diver will teach you to competently provide emergeny first response in all kinds of emergency situations. Make a difference!


Various Specialties to increase your knowledge in your area of interest. For more information, please contact us.

How to Jump Start a Motorcycle

Keep in mind when the cold in addition to the approximate condition of the battery, spark plugs and air filter, the bike may refuse to start. Here are some simple tips to make the mechanical purr.

1. Spray the magic potion

If your bike has already prayed several times to start, use a bomb to start immediately, commonly called “Start Driver” (this is a manufacturer). A highly flammable gas that is vaporized, acting as a great starter. Send a big spray entering the air filter, either under the seat, behind a side cover or under the nose fairing (direct inlet) and immediately press the starter. This magic potion boosts the start of combustion due to insufficient feeble sparks to the spark plugs and a carburetion wrong dosage, or disrupted by cold or moisture.

2. Succor your battery

A motorcycle battery can quickly find themselves flat after a few attempts to start. The problem is known by car, though their batteries have more capacity. It is easily found in supermarkets pairs of strings start. Connect a car battery using two cords, one black and one red powerful claw at each end. Connect the black wire between the “-” the car battery and the “-” of yours, or directly on the metal of the engine. Connect the red wire to the terminals “+” of the two batteries; taking care not to touch the metal mass of a vehicle does not cause a short circuit. Train your starter battery with a very powerful poses absolutely no problem as long as it’s 12 V. The battery can of course be rescued by a battery charger. If you have a car charger, once power is not bad because 30 min to 1 h charge your battery enough to find the form. With a specific charger motorcycle, it’s longer.

3. Start the engine “the stroller”

Do you know before the departure of motorcycle Grand Prix taking place in the stroller? The only difficulty to start a motorcycle on the stroller depends on its weight and your physical strength. Put the second and disengage. Get side of the bike that fits your best, right or left, to push.

Please take the maximum impetus to the machine. It launched its mass – ie the kinetic energy – that counts. Once you feel you cannot grow faster, jump on the bike saddle by releasing simultaneously the clutch to the rear wheel hanging on the ground under the impact of your weight. If the engine is good provisions, it starts at that time. If no coughing really good start, you descend from the saddle to continue to grow. This is the position habit reveals his interest: the posterior on the saddle and two legs on the same side can rest their feet on the ground immediately and to resume the push until the engine roar. When it roars, hold the engine speed to throttle with the clutch engaged. Stop brake gently before it works!

4. Work to start

Check spark plugs for fast charging the battery. They can be full of gasoline dismantling, in addition to having been worn and soiled by “working”. Clean and check the spacing of electrodes (on average 0.6 to 0.7 mm) using a set of discs. If you do not, the thickness of the thumbnail should be in troubleshooting. Tighten the gap by tapping on the electrode than with the handle of a tool. Also take a look at the cleanliness of the air filter because it is too dirty, it distorts the proportion of air / fuel. This is too rich and can easily drown out the candles if the starter is activated.


Completely drain the battery by insisting starter barely able to run the engine. The housings of electronic ignition, or TCI (Transistor Control Ignition for), require a minimum voltage to assume the onset of sparks in the process of the candle. If the battery is washed, the bike will not start even with the stroller. These are the ignition CDI (capacitor discharge ignition) equipping most trails that do not use battery power but that of the alternator.