One Night In Manila

June 20, 2006 at 9:18 am

Another food & politics report from Extreme Mortman culinary correspondent Vic Matus, known in other sophisticated literary circles as Weekly Standard assistant managing editor and blogger for Galley Slaves:

The Ritz-Carlton in downtown D.C. was the site of Saturday night’s black-tie gala “Celebrating 100 Years of Filipino Heritage in the United States.”  As it turns out, the first Filipino immigrants arrived in Hawaii in 1906. (But, you ask, didn’t Hawaii only become a state in 1950? Well, yes, but then we couldn’t call the dinner a “centennial tribute,” just one that commemorates 56 years, which doesn’t have quite the same ring to it.)

In any event, some 700 guests weathered the heat and humidity (making it feel all the more like a night in Manila) and found relief inside the Ritz and at the numerous blue-lit bars that served ice-cold San Miguel beer, along with the usual spirits. Many of the Filipino men in attendance donned the native equivalent of a tuxedo–the Barong Tagolog (a finely designed, airy shirt, worn untucked, sometimes made of banana cloth–or was it hemp?).  The women lent their share of elegance, clad in grand Filipiniana dresses–the kind Imelda Marcos wore when she sang duets with George Hamilton.
 
Among the guests were numerous Filipino dignitaries such as outgoing Philippine ambassador Albert Del Rosario, Foreign Secretary Alberto Romulo, and White House chef Cristeta Comerford. Also present were Rep. Todd Tiahrt (R-Kansas) and Cecilia Marshall (wife of Thurgood).  But the guest of honor was none other than John Negroponte, our director of national intelligence (remember we have one?) who was at one time our ambassador in Manila. (On a comical note, speakers were introduced to a techno beat, as if it were the Video Music Awards. “And now, please welcome Director of National Intelligence John Negroponte!” Cue the heavy bass: Thud! Thud! Thud! Thud!)
 
Most guests would probably say the highlight of the evening was the fashion show, created by Asia’s “fashion czar” Jose “Pitoy” Moreno.  And don’t get me wrong, it was a truly impressive mix of cultural history, native music, and modern interpretation of Filipino couture through the ages. But if you ask me, the highlight was the filet mignon, of which I am normally not a fan, considering its lack of intramuscular fat (and flavor). But the filets served up to the hundreds of guests that evening were remarkably juicy, ranging between medium and medium rare. This was matched by a rather impressive Robert Mondavi “signature” Cabernet Sauvignon 2004. As for Filipino influences, the appetizer was a Lumpiang Ubod–what you might call a spring roll wrapped in fresh rice paper, dressed with a sweet garlic sauce and with a side of hearts of palm.
 
I had been looking forward to the Halo Halo, a traditional Philippine dessert of ice shavings in milk, some ice cream, and an assortment of exotic fruit, served in a bowl. But, as it turns out, my first encounter with the Halo Halo occurred when a waiter moved one of the plates so swiftly, the ice and milk landed right on my arm.
 
As we made our way out on that sultry night, we were given gift bags that included a six-pack of San Miguel and a packet of Batangas ground coffee.  And we were met outside by a throng of tourists who seemed unusually interested in our posh event. Maybe they came to catch a glimpse of the ever-elusive director of national intelligence? Surely they weren’t waiting for those other hotel guests, the New York Yankees.

Matuson Avenue

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