Before setting out what is the dirt bike on the market I would like to point out how to recognize a dirt bike.

In the market there are several models and can be divided into several categories:


Have dimensions almost identical to those of a minibike, engine mount 50cc (or 39cc) 2-stroke, automatic transmission with centrifugal clutch and are of poor quality, suitable for making only small dirt tracks, but with modifications such as carburetor Italian, big bore, larger exhaust and a good clutch can also entertain, but always within the limits seen the limited performance of engine and chassis


It is no point going into detail to explain without a cross bike, mountain engine sizes from 50 up to 500cc, 2 or 4 times and all the houses as KTM, Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki has long been producing their own models or is not approved for use as road racing.

Many still tend to confuse with the dirt bike. The differences are not so obvious and are easy to confuse. To be sure not to miss just take in reference to the dirt bike engine. Horizontal motor mount, while the vertical motor mount dirt bike, just like motocross bikes.


The chassis of both is very similar, as the size and the displacement only difference is the type of engine.

A little prologue is done for the Orion and the dream. Apparently the two houses offer the market the same models the only thing that differs is that the dream will soon come from China, they are dismantled and that the house optimized, which is not true of orion that in most cases as coming from China so they come into our homes.

Everything I know about the world of dirt bikes I learned on the forum and turning a bit here and there on the Internet.

This guide on the purchase of dirt bike wants to be just a shortcut to be able to see and compare the pit is currently available.

The Dirt bikes have prices that are for all budgets, but obviously the more you pay more.

Many mountainous parts of China (90% of the outstanding pit motor mount Chinese) and the price differences are mainly based on the components have since been replaced by houses.

Dirt bike engine

The engines on the market are varied but most common are Loncin (also assembled by Polini XP4) ducar (motorized delay, the dream and the Orion before the bankruptcy) Lifan (motorized the wt motor) yx (or tsunami, or RSR are always a Replication Kawasaki)

From point out is that there are no engines only Chinese but also Japanese. To be considered is the ‘very good daytona, (though it is actually a mixture of Chinese and Japanese components) on rare common dirt bike given its price of around € 1,000.

The dirt bike has displacements ranging from 50cc (an example is mounted in the first dirt bike in history or the Honda CRF 50) up to a maximum of 150 cc. (From the original without big bore)

We always talk about 4 stroke engines 2 or 4 valves, the first suitable for use by cross saw their torque at low engine speeds, the second, the 4-valve, more suitable for use motard seen its torque at high speeds.

All pits have a 4-speed engine with air cooling, a maximum number of model features a small radiator for cooling the oil but not strictly necessary.

Engines can make several distinctions.

We start from the clutch. Are commercially clutches 2, 3, 4 or 5 discs when buying a dirt bike. 125 (for example, orion 34, wt, dream 666) engine comes with 2 clutch discs, good for nothing, not part of a gear, cannot adjust the wire of the clutch and throttle response to a slower than those in more disks.

Motor type Lifan 140, extreme, jailing 125 or 140, come with clutch discs 5, very good for processing, you can adjust at will and responds to accelerate very quickly ..

To distinguish between the friction disk 5 from those 2 is very simple: enough to see where the wire is attached to the clutch. If seeing the pit on the right side, where the clutch cable attaches to the side of the clutch bell is 2 discs, if it is attached above are 4 or 5 discs.

As I said before the engines of commerce are different.


The frames of the dirt bikes are of a different bill, shape, type, material and especially money. Everyone is open cradle, and most all have the same attack (which is optimal given that one can mount any engine that’s better suited to finances and the type of guidance).

The most common are basically 2: perimeter frame or single arm.

The perimeter being more rigid is recommended for motard use one while the single arm is ideal for the cross. This does not mean that one does not go well for both uses that one wants to do it. There are looms from 100 to 2000 €.

Obviously the greater the price the higher the quality the better the resistance to behave on the various uses competitions. It goes without saying that a frame of 100 € will never be totally suitable for Chinese to cross and jump of 10 meters. That’s not to say that a frame from 2000 € is indestructible, but if only the performance and life will be much better.

Engine is mounted to the frame, plastic tank, shock absorbers and forks.

The forks are 2 types, such as the traditional mounted on most bikes in the market, or cantiliver, typically mounted on a pit 10 or 10 max 12 10 and the rear shock is not directly attached to the fork, but on a kind of frame welded amending the fork angle of the rear mono putting almost horizontal.

Shock absorbers and forks

Essential to know as always that you pay more than you have.

There are front forks and rear mono for all budgets, from the Chinese from 100 € up to Marzocchi, DNM or pots that can reach even 1000 € cost.

To use the motard trim of the pit must be very hard, the front fork must be hard not to sink excessively during braking while the mono behind must be hard even well adjusted well in compression and release (which is possible only on the shock of a certain level.

In adjustable rear mono hurt or left too soft for use motard could even be dangerous to change direction if the mono is soft makes you jump the back could cause falls or sbacchettamenti annoying and dangerous!

Eventually many people think: for the motard very hard to cross all soft, something totally wrong.

Eventually each test after test must be able to adjust the motion with respect to their physical characteristics and guidance.

Too slow to cross a shock might cause you to lose grip at the end of a jump too fast but you might have suffered a jolt after landing a jump.

For the mono setting is crucial.

If you use it for a purpose motard begin to tighten the ring nut which is above the spring.

If you do not have the appropriate key is good with a hammer a screwdriver fixed (used chisel type)

As for the compression and release, before starting to try to put them all regular and 2 (or depends on the type of mono) in position 10 shots central in practice if they put it on 5 step and try the pit.

You see that reaction, and each time it has settled.

The front forks are very well adjusted.

At the end you have to go to harden by a mechanic and you add (or change) fork oil.

Disassemble it by yourself is very complicated, but also good if you adjust forks Chinese Posson give good satisfaction.


Having all the dirt bike 4 stroke engines has a great engine braking, but this does not mean that the brakes are not important.

To cross the brakes are used very little while in motard are almost essential. The front usually is used for braking while the rear especially to adjust the trajectories.

This implies that 2 can also be of a different bill. if a pit with his Chinese motorcyclist wants to do just 2 simple things to improve the braking:

  1. Get a good pump and a new cable braid
  2. Knowing how to do a good purge.

Brakes are usually best 3: formula, Brembo and Nissin.

Just go to the break, there are pumps that cost you and no 20 €. The only thing to watch is the latch that connects the pump to the wire braid. Ratchet is usually the original Chinese of size 8 while those of motorcycles (and therefore of our pump brembo) is 10. To obtain them just go to a mechanic and if you’re lucky not paid either.


Unscrew the screws that cover the tank of our pump, put the tube over the vent valves (or bleeding) that is on the caliper.

Fill the syringe and  directly inside the tube, the liquid will rise and mingle with the old one.

As you make sure this service to lift a little at a time the old oil that is on the surface of the tank of our pump, but beware, try not to ever completely empty. Add oil may cause excessive removal of bubbles inside the tube.

Done that close the valves that is where he is the forceps and gently pump the brake .. you’ll see that small bubbles will come from these pump. Finite air bubbles replace the cover and tighten. Pump up to when your brakes will not be looking hard.

At the moment this is a short guide that soon I will endeavor to expand com arguments concerning the steps of the motor discharges and a short guide for optimal carburetion.